Why there isn’t a single price for all arrangements
«Why are you charging me more for a hem/zip/alteration when other places do it more cheaply?» This is a common question at the workshop. Behind the figures lie professional judgements and real costs that aren’t always apparent at first glance. The difference between two quotes for the same job can be as wide as the working practices, experience and structure of the garage providing the quote.
There are several legitimate reasons for this variation:
- Experience and expertise: A tailor who specialises in technical fabrics, complex linings or haute couture garments will need more time to prepare and charges accordingly. Their guarantee of the end result and their ability to deal with unforeseen issues are valuable assets.
- Location and cost structure: The rent for the premises, taxes, energy costs and staff wages all affect the final price. A workshop in a central location or one with several industrial machines will have a different cost structure to a domestic service.
- Working methods and quality control: Some garages invest in preliminary diagnostics, interim tests and professional ironing; others opt for quick fixes. More internal processes mean a longer overall turnaround time and, consequently, a higher price.
- Risk and liability: Delicate garments, items with embroidery, original buttons or fabrics that run require specific techniques and precautions. Where the work may be irreversible, the workshop offsets the risk with a fee that covers any potential claims or repairs.
To illustrate this by way of example: two tailors may quote different prices for replacing a zip because one works with thick synthetic fabrics and removable linings, keeps detailed records of the time taken and offers a repair guarantee; the other carries out the replacement quickly on the spot without any further checks. Both approaches may be correct, but they differ in terms of both cost and the level of risk involved.
Accepting that there is no single rate protects the profession: it forces us to assess each garment in its own context and prevents us from giving away hours of work or taking on responsibilities without adequate remuneration. The challenge for the professional is to communicate that assessment clearly so that the client understands what she is paying for and why.
The 5 factors that should be included in every budget
To avoid giving away free labour and to safeguard the workshop’s profitability, every quote must be based on a realistic and documented assessment of what the job will entail. Below are the five essential factors and how to quantify them in a practical way.
1. Actual working time
The difference between net sewing time and total time. Net time is the time spent actually sewing or working on the garment; total time includes assessment, preparation, marking out, fittings with the customer, ironing and packing. If you only quote for machine hours, you end up giving the rest away for free.
- Records actual times by type of alteration (zip replacement, seam adjustment, hem with lining).
- It includes a percentage for contingencies (for example, a margin to allow for items that may behave unpredictably).
- Use spreadsheets or an app to measure performance and then adjust your rates based on actual data.
2. Fabric type and garment construction
Not all fabrics behave in the same way: silks, lace, stretch fabrics, complex linings or garments with multiple layers require greater care, specific needles and techniques. The construction (exposed seams, full lining, interfacing) increases the time and responsibility involved.
- Identify delicate fabrics that may require testing or stabilisers.
- Please note whether there is a removable lining, trimmings or decorative elements that require manual intervention.
- Include specific consumables (needles, technical thread, adhesives, interfacing) in the budget.
3. Technical complexity and risk of the procedure
Some repairs are reversible, whilst others are irreversible. Work involving embroidery, garments with sentimental value or items with unique finishes carries greater risk and responsibility. This risk must be reflected in the price and the terms of the quotation.
- Classify the procedure as: basic, intermediate or high-risk, and specify a proportionate safety margin.
- If there is a risk of irreversible damage, explain this and suggest alternatives (testing on a sample, reproducing the component).
- Consider the liability: expensive materials or designer garments mean greater cover against claims.
4. Materials and finishes
The cost of materials is not insignificant: specialised zips, threads of specific colours or qualities, buttons, linings and interfacing all have a real cost that must be added without being concealed. There is also labour involved in aesthetic finishes and reinforcements.
- Break down the materials in the quote, showing the estimated cost and any potential variation should the client choose a different component.
- Includes assembly time and finishing touches (hemming, hand-stitching, lining attachment).
- If you require any special items ( concealed zip, metal fastenings), please specify this as an extra, subject to availability.
5. Urgency and number of tests required
Deadlines have a direct impact on the workshop’s production capacity. An urgent order may displace scheduled work and require overtime; additional testing takes up time that must be charged for.
- It sets charges for urgent cases (as a percentage of the total amount) and for each additional test beyond those included.
- Specify and state the number of tests included in the quote and the cost of any additional tests.
- Set realistic deadlines and make it clear what impact last-minute changes will have on price and timing.
Recording and itemising these five factors in every quote not only protects the workshop’s profit margin, but also promotes transparency with the customer and reduces complaints arising from unmet expectations.
Mistakes that mean a dressmaker works hard but earns little
Although technical skill forms the basis of the trade, it is administrative and commercial decisions that determine whether a workshop is profitable. These mistakes are common and easy to rectify: identifying them and implementing simple measures prevents you from giving away hours and incurring unexpected costs.
Getting a quote over the phone without seeing the garment
Quoting a price remotely leaves the door open to errors. Over the phone, it is impossible to assess the type of fabric, the condition of the lining, or whether there are reinforced seams or hidden details that increase the complexity of the job. The result: underestimating the time required, ordering less material than necessary, or being caught out by a job that proves more labour-intensive than anticipated. Whenever possible, ask the customer to bring the garment in or request detailed photos and measurements before confirming a quote.
Omitting materials from the budget
Failing to include items such as specific zips, interlinings, special threads or buttons means that these costs end up being borne by the workshop. In addition to the direct cost, dealing with urgent purchases and minor unforeseen issues takes up time. Rule of thumb: draw up a standard list of materials for each type of repair and use it as a checklist for every quote.
Do not charge for A&E visits or additional tests
Dealing with work after the deadline, accepting more revisions than agreed, or rushing through processes without compensation means extra work with no profit margin. Establish a clear policy on urgent requests (for example: an additional charge or a percentage of the total amount) and specify the number of revisions included. If the client requests further revisions, these must be quoted for separately.
Failing to put the agreement in writing
Verbal communication is unreliable: changes to the scope of work, oversights in the job description or disagreements over finishes can lead to misunderstandings and complaints. A signed written quotation (or one accepted by post) protects both parties and serves as a reference should any doubts arise. Specifying exactly what is included and what is excluded avoids unpaid «extras».
Failure to record actual times and costs
Relying on intuition prevents you from setting prices sensibly. If you don’t measure how long each type of repair actually takes and don’t record the cost of materials and subcontractors, you’ll never know whether your rates cover your costs or where you can improve productivity. Keep a record for each job: time spent on diagnosis, time spent on the repair itself, materials and the percentage of unforeseen costs.
Practical tips for avoiding these mistakes
- Set up a handover form with a checklist (condition of the garment, materials required, fittings included).
- Use budget templates that break down hours, materials and urgent items.
- Use internal timesheets: record actual time spent on each job over a period of several weeks to adjust your rates.
- Request a reasonable advance payment for complex or high-value projects to cover initial purchases and demonstrate commitment.
- Set out the policy on changes and cancellations to avoid unpaid work resulting from last-minute changes.
Correcting these errors does not require major investment: consistent processes, data recording and clear communication are enough to ensure that the workshop stops giving away work for free and starts reflecting its true value in every quote. And as you know, our tool SastrePro, he can give you a hand with everything.
